Science and Nature news
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Strung along a bay in southwest England, Weymouth still possesses many of the characteristics that once charmed Georgian and Victorian holidaymakers: the children waving from bulb-lit carousels, the boats slung with nets of rock oysters, the fisherfolk unloading the day’s catch in a harbour backed by pastel-hued houses. In many ways, it’s the quintessential English seaside town — only with a clifftop fortress and a World Heritage Site thrown in for good measure. Set on the UNESCO-listed Jurassic Coast, a 95-mile stretch of fossil-rich cliffs and beaches straddling Devon and Dorset, it serves as an ideal base for those looking to delve into the geology of the surrounding landscape. Wind-lashed isles are within easy reach, while exhilarating boat trips along the coast offer a fresh perspective on Dorset’s marine life and otherworldly rock formations.
A quintessential English seaside town, Weymouth’s Harbour is lined with a strip of pastel-coloured, terraced buildings.
Photograph by Milos Ruzicka, Alamy
How should I spend my time?
Take a stroll on Chesil Beach, the 18-mile shingle barrier that gave its name to one of British author Ian McEwan’s most famous novels. A pebbled swathe pinned between the sea and The Fleet lagoon, its sheer expanse makes it a peaceful spot to spend the day searching for ammonites and other fossils. Scramble up its undulating mounds, which are threaded with wildflowers like thrift and sea campion come spring, and you’ll be treated to endless views of the English Channel at the top. For panoramas of Weymouth itself, make for Nothe Fort, built between 1860 and 1872 by Lord Palmerston in anticipation of a French invasion that never happened. The coastal defence is now an award-winning war museum with its own nuclear bunker, and offers an array of family-friendly events, including silent discos, Punch and Judy shows and open-air Shakespeare performances. For an exhilarating 20-minute trip east along the Dorset coast, book a seat on a boat with Weymouth Bay RIB Charters. Watch out for seals and dolphins as you speed towards Durdle Door, a serpentine rock arch known locally as the ‘drinking dragon’.
Where should I go for food?
On a clear day, breakfast doesn’t get much better than a plate of syrup-drenched pancakes at The Lookout Café. Not far from the Romano-Celtic temple ruins on Jordan Hill, the family-run restaurant looks onto Preston Beach, where you might spot the occasional windsurfer taking advantage of the coastal breeze. At Billy Winters Bar & Diner, ice-cold pints are best accompanied by a basket of battered fish. Strung with lanterns, the improvised beach bar shares the shingle with Ferrybridge Boatyard near Chesil Beach Visitors Centre. A five-minute walk brings you to its sister restaurant, Crab House Café, home to huge seafood platters and a terrific list of English sparkling wines. For relaxed fine dining overlooking Weymouth Harbour, book one of the window tables at Les Enfants Terribles, where head chef and owner Eric Tavernier brings French flare to a menu highlighting local seafood. Try the sea bass, steamed with carrots and oranges.
Located on the town’s Georgian terraced seafront, many of the rooms at Gloucester House offer unobstructed views of Weymouth Bay.
Photograph by Gloucester House
Local seafood is served with a French flare at Les Enfants Terribles restaurant, with dishes such as clams in cream.
Photograph by Restaurant Les Enfants Terribles
Where are the best places to stay?
Weymouth’s promenade is lined with a strip of Georgian terraced houses, many of which have been converted into bed and breakfasts. A standout includes Gloucester House, where a morning enjoying unbroken views over Weymouth Bay is topped off by a locally sourced breakfast. Alternatively, check into Clifftops, a set of five lodges hewn into the cliffs on the Isle of Portland. Set within the grounds of Pennsylvania Castle and only a 15-minute drive from Weymouth, the minimalist apartments — all slick, stylish furnishings and floor-to-ceiling windows — seem to float above the crashing waves below. They’re built with local stone found on the four-mile-long islet, so guests may even notice fossils embedded in the walls.
Published in the October 2024 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
