National Geographic
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Known as Edo under the rule of the shoguns — Japan’s military rulers — until 1868, Tokyo sits at the centre of a historic web spanning the island of Honshu. It’s a captivating mega-city where old Japan’s precisely clipped gardens and great scarlet shrines rub up against TeamLab high-tech art galleries and Harajuku fashion shops. The country’s modern capital is also the natural jumping-off point for a cultural tour. Covering both big-hitters and hidden highlights, this itinerary strikes out from Tokyo’s towering skyscrapers.
First head to the less-visited north of the country, where cobblestones have been smoothed by the braided shoes of samurai, and temples hide among quiet forests. Castles, mountains and crafts are all present here — and travellers who make the effort to venture past Tokyo are rewarded with fewer crowds.
After that, the itinerary heads west to Hiroshima via Kyoto and Osaka, covering an ever-popular pantheon of cultural wonders. Here, you’ll find the buzz and neon of new Japan — a world of packed bars and Pokemon — but also preserved villages, bygone trading cities and the glories of former capitals. There are rewarding detours, too. See where Chinese influence swept in at Kanazawa, a city of gold-leaf crafting, tea ceremonies and traditional gardens; and make time for Nara, Japan’s first fixed capital and a city to rival Kyoto for its temples. Travellers should also take a side trip to Kobe for its Wagyu: prized beef with marbled meat, widely considered the world’s best.
Where to go in Japan
1. Aizu-Wakamatsu
This town was the last samurai hold-out in the 1868 rebellion against the Meiji government that formed when shogun rule ended. The conflict is memorialised at Iimoriyama, a hill where a troop of teenage samurai committed suicide as they faced defeat. Visit the reconstructed Tsuruga Castle and magical Sazaedo Pagoda with its spiralling, sticker-strewn stairs, and taste sakes at historic Suehiro brewery, founded in the Edo era.
2. Nikko
Work on this sweeping shrine and temple complex was begun to honour the first shogun of the Edo era, Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543–1616). Flamboyant and justifiably popular, the monuments are scattered among beech and oak forest, rearing out of the deep green in slashes of scarlet, pistachio and sapphire. Visitors gather inside the complex under a famous carving of the three monkeys seeing, hearing and speaking no evil. Outside, seek out the photogenic red Shinkyo bridge.
3. Shirakawa-go
Cross a suspension bridge over the luminous Sho River to reach this traditional village of A-frame gassho-zukuri houses. The angled roofs — some of them 250 years old, and all built without nails — were designed to withstand heavy snowfall and create attic space for silkworm cultivation. Visitors can stay in a lodge overnight to soak in the past, learn about silk culture, visit the Myozenji temple and try their hand at local crafts.
4. Kyoto
Though it suffers from overtourism, Kyoto’s high concentration of historical and cultural treasures means it remains one of Japan’s most beautiful and rewarding cities to visit. Explore less-crowded temples such as the wooden, hilltop Shinnyodo, and Sanjusangendo with its 1,001 human-sized Kannon goddess statues. Add on lesser-known alternatives to popular sites, like the Fushimi sake district near the Fushimi Inari shrine, and take a river cruise from Arashiyama after a visit to its popular bamboo groves.
The vintage Tstutenkaku Tower stands among the inner-city streets of Osaka’s Shinsekai neighbourhood, teeming with small restaurants and bars.
Photograph by Francesco Lacomino, Awl Images
5. Minami, Osaka
Often seen as Tokyo’s alter ego, Osaka is the grittier and perhaps more fun-loving sister-city to Japan’s capital. Streetwear and street food rule supreme here — and kinetic downtown Minami around Namba Station is the place to snack and feast. Shops and stalls spill out into the neighbourhood’s over-the-top illuminated streets; try takoyaki (deep-fried octopus balls), crispy kara-age chicken, glazed yakitori meat skewers and sweet taiyaki cakes.
6. Hiroshima
The first targeted atomic bomb of the Second World War levelled the thriving castle city of Hiroshima in 1945. Rebuilt with incredible speed, today Hiroshima stands as a monument to peace. It’s also an attractive modern city in its own right. Visit the moving Peace Museum, Peace Park and stark skeleton of the Atomic Bomb Dome — one of the sole structures to survive the bomb. Leave time to also try a noisy izakaya (traditional bar) with local-style okonomiyaki (savoury pancake), and pay a visit to Van Gogh and Monet at the Museum of Art.
Published in the September 2024 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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